Money

TIP: You will get a better rate of exchange for cash than for travelers cheques. We found that the exchange places charged a commission for travelers cheques, but not for changing cash. — M. Culshaw, Canada

TIP: When you bring cash make sure that none of the bills have ANY rips in them. We have had bills refused with small rips. — A. Higgins, Canada

TIP: Credit cards are used most places in Istanbul, but lots of cash or access to it is really necessary.  The old thing of tipping with American dollars is not too well received – which is strange due to the strength of the dollar.  Good advice was to change money every few days rather than a lot at once due to the unruly fluctuation of the value of the dollar. –L. Durand, USA

TIP: If you are planning to be in Turkey for more than a few days, convert your money a little at a time. Inflation is high in Turkey (50% in 1999) and you will be surprised by the changes a week in exchange rates can bring.

TIP: When you arrive at the airport, the best place to exchange money is at the PTT (post office) inside baggage claim. And always count your money no matter who is making change. Turks do it and so should you!

TIP: If you purchase your visa at your point of entry have cash. They do not take traveler’s checks, credit cards or Turkish lira.

What To Wear

TIP: Don’t bring too many clothes from home. Buy them there. It is inexpensive, especially if you discuss the price and bargain.–  G.&R Rock, Belgium

TIP: Wear flat shoes for walking, and watch where you are walking. The sidewalks are often not only uneven, but  also broken, with lots of unexpected holes. — M. Culshaw, Canada

TIP: If you are male, don’t wear shorts when you visit a mosque, unless you want to walk around it clad in a skirt.  The skirt will be provided at the door, and you won’t be allowed to enter until you have donned it! –  M. Culshaw, Canada

TIP: Ladies, if you are contemplating eating in small local restaurants you may be well advised to wear a skirt rather than pants. Many of these local places have toilets that are of the ‘hole in the floor’ variety! ‘Nuff said? — M Culshaw Canada.

TIP: Wear the clothes you would normally wear in your own country, as you will see the same amount of variety in Turkey (I’m often asked if I need to wear a head scarf when I go!!) — A. Higgins, Canada

TIP: Take some ‘water shoes’ as many of the beaches are rocky. — A. Higgins, Canada

Drinking and Eating

TIP:  We visited the beautiful city of Marmaris the end of August 1999. We found that if you leave the main road, you can save up to 40% on prices for eating. We found a Restaurant and Bar named EVITA, placed on 165 Sok. across from Fidan Otel, Karsisi No. 8. Here the prices are low and the food is very good and Turkish. Combined with a very nice staff, make this a place you must visit in Marmaris. — L. & J. Redlef, Denmark

TIP:  In the restaurants, keep track of what you ordered and notice the prices. Make your own bill (on a paper or with a pocket calculator). Do it obviously, so the waiters can see it. You will have no surprise when you ask for their “real” bill. Sometimes (often ?) there is a mistake in the addition … Turkish language is not easy to read, even on a bill. — G.&R Rock, Belgium

TIP: Drink bottled water, and in restaurants make sure the bottle is unopened when it is brought to the table. Refuse it if it isn’t. — M. Culshaw, Canada

TIP: To really experience the Turkish eating/drinking ‘behaviors’  go to a restaurant (with a Turk, if possible) and drink Raki while eating mezze, small appetizers.  This process should last a number of hours, while you talk about everything. — A. Higgins, Canada

TIP: Food, glorious food.  Eat in tiny places, fancy places, huge places.  The food is so superb that one can almost not miss.  Our favorite place was the restaurant in Topkapi. And … if you love creme caramel, you’ll be in heaven. — L. Durand, USA

TIP: Don’t drink the tap water. You can purchase water for about $1 a liter at any market. If you’re on a budget, then purchase water like the natives do at the “SU” store. Su means water, and they use a hose and meter like a petrol or gas station. Three liters of water is about 10 cents.

Places To Visit

TIP: When in Bodrum, take a one day boat trip from the harbor, about $10-20 CND ($7-14 US) includes lunch.  Its very relaxing and beautiful, and will take you to a number of gorgeous little coves.  It can be a bit too many people so spend a bit more and go on a day trip with only 5-10 people. — A. Higgins, Canada

TIP: Go to Dalyan – you can find a pension right on the river that leads from the lake to the sea.  On the opposite side of the river are ancient  tombs carved into the side of a mountain.  During the day you can take a boat to the beach, the beach being a special turtle nesting area. — A. Higgins, Canada

TIP: Tahtakuslar Gallery, located between Altinoluk and Edremit, is an excellent opportunity to experience how Turkish nomads live and best of all it’s free. Visitors can try on some of the clothes the nomads used to wear and have their picture taken. There is a museum that also displays handmade items from a village about a mile away. I believe it is a very good cultural experience for tourists.– C. Askin, USA

TIP: Just 5 – 10 miles away from Tahtakuslar there are thermal hot springs named Gure Kaplicalari. It is very similar to Turkish baths. It is open 24-hours plus you can rent your own room for taking a  bath. You pay a flat rate of around $2/room and you can stay  as long as you want. They also have beds for people who want to spend the night. It is dirt cheap!! The spa is surrounded by olive trees and the area is referred to as “Oxygen Heaven,” because of its clear air.– C. Askin, USA

Transportation

TIP: Use “dolmus” (pronounce as “dolmoosh”). It is inexpensive (15 BEF for about 4 km) and very nice. — G.&R Rock, Belgium

TIP: Use a dolmus – an inexpensive transportation system – using cars from the 50′s (in Istanbul) or mini-busses (elsewhere) as a cross between a bus and a taxi.  You get on at certain locations, the dolmus  has a predefined route, but you can get of f anywhere.  It will usually cost 50 cents, and the driver will not take a tip. — A. Higgins, Canada

TIP: You can make a quick trip from Istanbul to Canakkale via air. Dardanel Air offers a 40-minute flight for about $100 round-trip. Compared to a long bus ride this is worth it! They serve fruit juice & snacks, however, do not expect to find the customer service you find in the USA. My personal experience was not that pleasant, but it was still well worth the time and money savings. –C. Askin, USA

Other Good Tips

TIP: Learn a few words of the Turkish language, such as “Hello”, “Thank you”, and so on (see http://www.turkey.org and then click on Tourism or go to http://cali.arizona.edu/). Turkish people appreciate this very much. — G.&R Rock, Belgium

TIP:  Always ask a price before you decide to buy a good or a service. e.g., once a shoeshine-boy begins to clean your shoes, you have to pay him anyway, and discussing the price is much more difficult after he did it than before.  — G.&R Rock, Belgium

TIP: In Turkey, there are not fixed prices. Especially on markets and in small shops, you have to discuss the prices. Usually, you can get a discount of 40 % to 60 %. If it is  possible, wait until another tourist has bought something and then ask him how much he payed. This can give you a good tip about the prices. — G&R Rock, Belgium

TIP: I tried the Australia Direct number for many days before I found out that many hotels etc., for reasons best known to themselves, actually block access to the international 00 800 country direct numbers but it does work very well from public telephones and any direct (i.e. not through a switchboard) connected telephone. — B. Anderson, Australia.

TIP: The supermarket (Migros) takes VISA and has a number of prepared traditional main dishes and deserts in their deli section.– A. Higgins, Canada

TIP: Take suntan lotion with you. It is quite expensive there.–A. Higgins, Canada

TIP: We learned to enjoy the carpet sales people and played the game with them, listening to any new ploys they tried. We did not enjoy the kids selling shoe shines, etc.  REMEMBER THAT NOTHING IS FREE – and often, they would spill polish on a shoe and charge to clean it off – too bad.  Their favorite spots appear to be in the Hippodrome area around the mosques and at the fish market.–L. Durand, USA

TIP: We were so very thankful to have been advised to stay in the old part of the city, the Sultanahmet area.  It was wonderful being able to walk to the major sites, bazaar, spice bazaar, etc. –L. Durand, USA

TIP: We had a fabulous, fabulous guide in Istanbul.  I’ll be happy to recommend him if desired. You can e-mail me for the information.–L. Durand, USA

TIP: We found L. Durand’s above recommendation for a guide in Istanbul to be  just as described: “fabulous”!  We, too, heartily recommend him. — G & K Kokko, USA

TIP: Visit Turkey in the off-season. Our ten days in Istanbul (with two nights out for the Ephesus experience) were some of the best of our lives.  I mean it.  My husband, son and I have never enjoyed a trip more.  We never consider weather in making our plans (other than avoiding horrid extremes, of course) and shocked many people with traveling to Turkey during Christmas.  We had perfect weather – two layer outings, rarely wearing coats; no rain. Uncanny!  We have also discovered the time to travel.  We had Istanbul and Ephesus, etc. to ourselves – no kidding.–L. Durand, USA

TIP: If you buy a “Yagcibedir” rug (they are made mainly in the East of Turkey), get a white handkerchief or piece of cloth or piece of cloth. Wet it a little bit and rub it on the “blue” color. if the blue color comes out, DON’T BUY that rug. Blue is the most difficult color to dye, therefore, the quality of the blue color will give you an idea of the quality of the rug. Also, always turn the back of the rug and look for white threads. The yarn they stretch to weave on is always white. You should not see too much of it.– C. Askin, USA

TIP: I found a “pansiyon” in Dardanel for $5-$10/night. They only work with tourists. Representatives will pick you up at the bus station at no charge. I would say for someone who is doing adventure travel with a backpack, the Yellow Rose Pansiyon is the place to go. — C. Askin, USA

TIP: I stayed at a beautiful hotel in Istanbul…excellent service, clean, magnificent view, live music, dancing, indoor pool & sauna, exercise room, nice restaurant, daily tours, etc. I got a special deal on the price through a friend and a U.S. passport, but I understand they offer special prices for tour groups and travel agencies. You can find Hotel Euro Plaza on-line at http://www.hoteleuroplaza.com.tr. — C. Askin, USA

TIP: In need of a rest room while in Turkey? Look for the nearest mosque. There are both women’s and men’s rest rooms.

Books

You can purchase any of these books directly from our pages by following the links to Amazon.com. Here’s our short list of suggested reading:

A Traveler’s History of Turkey
by Richard Stoneman
ISBN 1566562090
Stoneman’s book is a MUST for tourists and travelers alike. This slim volume covers 5,000 years of Turkish history and will give you an even better appreciation of this unique country that sits between East and West. It’s an “easy” read and well-organized. One caveat: Read it before you go!

Classical Turkey: An Architectural Guide for Travelers
by John Freely
ISBN 0887017298
You needn’t be a student of architecture to find this book useful for planning what ancient sites you want to see while in Turkey. If you’re planning to visit Ephesus (Efes) without a tour guide, then the maps, the explanations of the site, and its history are worth the purchase of the book alone. On other sites, the book provides sketches and photos that help you envision what the lumps of dirt you’re looking at once were! For architecture novices there is a handy glossary of common terms.

The Companion Guide to Turkey
by John Freely
ISBN 1900639122
Another useful tome on Turkey by author of Classical Turkey.

A Fez of the Heart
by Jeremy Seal
ISBN: 0-15-600393-7
Jeremy Seal lived and traveled throughout Turkey. It’s difficult to say if you’ll enjoy reading it before or after you leave home. It offers a British perspective on the Turkish experience with the added benefit of being well written.

Op Center: Acts of War
by Tom Clancy and Steve Pieczenik
ISBN: 0-425-15601-X
Tom Clancy is best known for his novels that have been made into movies: Patriot Games, Russia House and the Hunt for Red October. His Op Center books have his trademark of military details and history. Visitors to Turkey will enjoy this thriller that takes place in, well,  Turkey. The early pages of the book provide a nice overview of Turkish history in this century. Beyond that it will give you some insight of the geopolitical significance of Turkey in the Middle East and U.S. interests there. It’s a nice book to read on the plane and then either swap or sell once you’re in Turkey!

Lycian Turkey
by George E. Bean
ISBN 0393057089
Although George Bean wrote this guide nearly 50 years ago, it’s still an important book for those interested in finding and visiting the old Lycian, Roman and Greek ruins that Turkey is world famous for. Many of his books are out of print, but I found Lycian Turkey in the bookshop at the British Museum (London). Aegean Turkey is also an important book. You best bet would be to try your local library.

The Histories by Herodotus
There are many translations of The Histories. My favorite is by Aubrey De Selinco. Herodotus is considered the “grandfather” of  written history. He was born in what is now the resort town of Bodrum nearly 3,000 years ago. He wrote about ancient Greek history and especially about the Persian Wars. As you take your Bosphorus boat trip, you’ll have a better idea of the history that happened on its banks.  If you’re interested in the Greek history that transpired on what is now Turkey then you will find this delightful reading.

The World of Herodotus
by Aubrey De Selinco
ISBN 0965470707
Mr. de Selinco’s love and admiration for the ancient Greeks is contagious. He writes about the Greek world in Herodotus’s time and shares his insights with readers. It’s scholarly, but written for those who simply have an interest or curiosity about the ancient Greeks.

Herodotus: And the Explorers of the Classical Age
by Ann Gaines
ISBN 079101293X
A beautifully illustrated children’s book.

Dance

Turkey has a very ancient folk dance tradition which varies from region to region, each dance being colorful, rhythmic, elegant and styles. Among the most popular are “Çayda Çira” from the Sivas region in Central Anatolia. This is performed by young girls dressed in silver and gold embroidered kaftans who dance in the dark with lighted candles in their hands; “Silifke yogurdu” from the Mersin region in the South in which dancers click wooden spoons together above their heads; “Seyh Samil” from the Kars region in the East, a beautifully dramatized legend of a Caucasian hero; “Kiliç Kalkan”, an epic dance performed with swords and shields from the region Bursa; “Zeybek” from Izmir, another epic and vigorous dance performed by male dancers who bang their knees on the floor in between steps. Folklore has also had a considerable influence on ballet. First imported from Europe and Russia, ballet became institutionalized in the Republican era along with other performing arts. The Turkish State Ballet owes its momentum and development to the great British choreographer Dame Ninette de Valois. The State
Ballet in both Ankara and Istanbul has, for decades, performed many world classics. Several new foreign and Turkish productions have been introduced into the repertory over the years and a number of modern dance companies have begun to give performances throughout the country.

Music

Turkish music evolved from the original folk form into classical through the emergence of a Palace culture. It attained its highest point in the 16th century through the composer known as Itri. Great names in Turkish classical music include Dede Efendi, Haci Arif Bey and Tamburi Cemal Bey. It is a form that continues to be professionally performed and one that attracts large audiences. Turkish popular music is a variation of the national musical tradition, played with instruments such as the tambur, kanun, ney and ud. Folk music has developed gradually over the centuries in the rural areas of Turkey. It is highly diversified with many different rhythms and themes. Musical archives contain almost 10,000 such folk songs. Turkish religious music, mostly in the form of songs, is centuries old and rich in tradition, embodied at its most perfect by Mevlevi music. The Turks were introduced to western classical music through orchestras which were invited to the Sultan’s Palace to celebrate occasions such as weddings. The great Italian composer, Donizetti, conducted the Palace orchestra for many years. The first military band was founded in the 19th century.

During the Republican era, the Presidential Symphony Orchestra, founded in 1924, and the Orchestra of the Istanbul Municipality Conservatory, played a leading role in introducing and popularizing classical music in Turkey. Turkish composers drew their inspiration from Turkish folk songs and classical Turkish music. Today, conductors such as Hikmet Simsek and Gürer Aykal, pianists like Idil Biret and the Güher and Süher Pekinel sisters, and violinists like Suna Kan are internationally recognized virtuosos. Leyla Gencer is one of the leading sopranos of La Scala Opera, wildly acclaimed whenever she performs in her native Istanbul.

Theater & Cinema

Turkish theater is thought to have originated from the popular Karagöz shadow plays, a cross between moralistic Punch and Judy and the slapstick Laurel and Hardy. It then developed along an oral tradition, with plays performed in public places, such as coffee houses and gardens, exclusively by male actors. Atatürk gave great importance to the arts, and actively encouraged theater, music and ballet, prompting the foundation of many state institutions. Turkey today boasts a thriving arts scene, with highly professional theater, opera and ballet companies, as well as a flourishing film industry. The country enjoys numerous arts festivals throughout the year, the most prestigious of which is the Istanbul Film Festival.

Plastic Arts

Until the18th century, painting in Turkey was mainly in the for of miniatures, usually linked to books in the form of manuscript illustration. In the 18th century, trends shifted towards oil painting, beginning with murals. Thereafter, under European inspiration, painting courses were introduced in military schools. The first Turkish painters were therefore military people who, respecting the Islamic tradition which bars representation of the human face, focused at first on landscapes. The modernization of Turkish painting, including representation of the human figure, started with the founding of the Academy of Arts under the direction of Osman Hamdi Bey, one of the great names in Turkish painting. In 1923, followed by many other such schools. Art exhibitions in Turkey’s cities multiplied, more people started to acquire paintings and banks and companies began investing in art.

Literature

Literature has long been an important component of Turkish cultural life, reflecting the history of the people, their legends, their mysticism, and the political and social changes that affected this land throughout its long history. The oldest literary legacy of the pre-Islamic period are the Orhon inscriptions in northern Mongolia, written in 735 on two large stones in honor of a Turkish king and his brother. During the Ottoman period, the prevailing literary form was poetry, the dominant dialect was Anatolian or Ottoman, and the main subject beauty and romance. The Ottoman Divan literature was highly influenced by Persian culture and written in a dialect which combined Arabic, Persian and Turkish. Separate from the aristocratic Divan literature, folk literature continued to dominate Anatolia where troubadour-like poets celebrated nature, love and God in simple Turkish language. Towards the 20th century, the language of Turkish literature became simpler and more political and social in substance. The great and politically controversial poet, Nazim Hikmet, inspired by the Russian poet Mayakowski, introduced free verse in the late 1930s.
Nowadays, the irrefutable master of the Turkish popular novel is Yasar Kemal, with his authentic, colorful and forceful description of Anatolian life. Young Turkish writers tend to go beyond the usual social issues, preferring to tackle problems such as feminism and aspects of the East-West dichotomy which continues to fascinate Turkish intellectuals. Some of the rising stars of contemporary Turkish literature are: Orhan Pamuk, Nedim Gursel, Ahmet Altan and Pinar Kur.